I have finished it. Should you want to make one like it, here are some observations:
The squares are 1″ by 1″. I used a 16 by 20 inch canvas board and gave the board two additional coats of inexpensive, student grade gesso. I measured the squares out, marked them with a #2 graphite pencil and added the tape, centering the line on the tape.
My colors beginning with the reds: Cadmium Red Medium and Alizarin Crimson, Cad Orange, Cad yellow light, Cad Yellow Medium and Primary Yellow. Sap green and Chrome Oxide Green, Southern Ocean blue, Ultramarine and Phthaylo Blue. Dioxazine purple and Quinacrodone Magenta, then the earth colors: Quinacrodone Burnt Orange, Australian Sienna, and Nickel Azo Gold. This left 4 spaces at the end of the rows.
I wish I had done this differently now, by going across the width of the board, rather than the length. Had I done so, I would have had the 4 extra spaces at the ends of each row, rather than running along the sides of each. Nevertheless, these last four squares hold my main color, the main color mixed with it’s complimentary color, the main color mixed with raw umber, and the last box is the main color mixed with mars black-even though I rarely use black in my paintings.
There were enough spaces for all but the last of my colors, Nickel Azo Gold, which doesn’t bother me to have that one missing. I’ll just put that one in my paint recipe books. After all the squares of paint dried completely, I removed the tape. Here’s where the problem came in.
I’m not sure if it is because I used cheap gesso or my pencil is just horrible, but I could not erase the pencil lines left from marking out the squares. The whole thing looked horrible. I went over all the gessoed lines separating the squares with gesso again. The pencil lines were still clearly visible. I mixed a gray and went over all the white spaces separating the colors with that. Yes, it covered the pencil lines, but I hated the dark gray against the colors. I mixed white and gesso together and went over all the lines again.
While the separation between the color squares is not a pristine white, it is a very pale gray. After all that, I can live with very pale gray. Next time I will use a pale gray watercolor pencil to make my marks, which will wash away easily following the removal of the tape.
I am very pleased with the flower stamp tonal chart. I used a piece of poster board, with two heavy coats of gesso, fully dried. I used a foam kneeling pad from the Dollar Tree, cut into a circle. I added fun foam, which I cut into the shape of a simple flower, then cut the centers out of all the petals and the flower center. I hot glued the thin cut outline of the flower onto the foam kneeling pad circle. This caused the thin outline of the flower to be raised enough to ink. I used a Momento black ink pad to ink the stamp and made 16 flowers on the sheet of poster board. I used the same colors, starting with the pure color and tinting it with white in each petal, with the center of the flower being the lightest. Once the paints had dried, I outlined the flower image with a black waterproof marker. I added the name of the color on the edge of a petal and hung it up.
While this process took several hours to accomplish, it wouldn’t have if I hadn’t had to go over the pencil lines with a very small paint brush several times. The end results are worth the effort, although I have a feeling I will be re-doing the larger canvas board one. Now that it’s completed, I prefer the toned colors to be beneath the column of each color, rather than having them run along the side…Ah, live and learn. That is what Clive does on his charts, but I was so intent upon tinting my colors to the maximum amount I forgot he’d done that. By the time I realized my mistake it was to late to change it. I will be re-making the chart, I just haven’t had the time yet.